"If you roll a pearl around your mouth it slowly reveals the dreams of oysters, memories of the sea..." –  Chloe Thurlow

 

 

 

Natural Baroque Pearl and Diamond Tiara Gold, circa 1900-1901 AD

Pure says: Exquisite

Jewelry by Unknown via Christie's Magnificent Pearls Bahrain Exhibit, 2017

 

 

 

THE BEST PEARLS AT AUCTION IN 2024

 

Hi Pearl Lovers! 

So far, 2024 has not seen any incredibly historically significant pearls that came to auction like we did with the Marie Antoinette's royal jewels, or the suite of royal jewels from Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg sold at Sotheby’s in 2023.

However, we did see that natural pearl necklaces, earrings and brooches did bring in astonishingly high prices at various auctions, as much as 1000% over their original estimates. Natural pearls are making a serious comeback, and why wouldn't they? Their lustrous glow, gorgeous colors and eternal beauty makes natural pearls a must have for any serious gemstone or jewelry lover. 

I’ve selected some of the pieces that fetched the highest prices that were the most beautiful and interesting pearls for us to review (and drool over!). Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auctions in both New York and Hong Kong had some particularly beautiful jewels that I’d like to showcase for our Pearls at Auction 2024 edition, and I have one very special surprise at the end! 

Onto the show!

 

 

 

Photos courtesy of Phillips 

Keshi Pearl and Diamond Flower Brooch, Schlumberger at Tiffany & Co.

Jean Schlumberger was a renowned French jewelry designer, celebrated for his imaginative and nature-inspired creations, particularly during his tenure at Tiffany & Co. The Keshi Petal Pearl and Diamond Flower brooch is a testament to Schlumberger's artistry, combining organic forms with luxurious materials. The brooch likely dates back to the mid-20th century, a period during which Schlumberger produced some of his most famous works, although the exact date of creation would need to be verified.

The brooch prominently features Keshi pearls, which are known for their irregular, organic shapes and exceptional luster. These pearls are non-nucleated, meaning they are formed without a bead nucleus, resulting in a solid nacre composition. This gives them a unique sheen and irregularity, which Schlumberger utilized to create the petal-like structures in this floral design.‌

The brooch is encrusted with high-quality diamonds, which add brilliance and contrast to the soft luster of the pearls. The diamonds are likely set in platinum or white gold, metals traditionally used by Schlumberger to enhance the cool tones of the pearls and diamonds.

The design showcases Schlumberger's exceptional craftsmanship, with meticulous attention to detail in the arrangement of the pearls and diamonds. The brooch’s design is likely three-dimensional, with petals and leaves creating a lifelike floral motif, a signature of Schlumberger’s style.

The Keshi Flower Brooch sold at Phillips Auctions, June 2024 for $27,940 USD (original estimate $5,000-$7,000)

 

 

 

Photo courtesy of Christie's Hong Kong

 

Bhagat Natural Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Necklace (Property of a Lady)

This opulent and regal Triple Strand necklace is composed of three meticulously arranged strands of lustrous natural saltwater pearls. Every round to off-round pearl was clearly carefully selected for its exceptional surface quality, steadily graduated sizes measuring from 4.0mm to a stunning 11.5mm center section, and luminous luster that appears to glow from within. The pearls' creamy sheen is beautifully contrasted by the vibrant green of the emeralds, adding a pop of color and a splash of additional opulence to the classic design. 

At the heart of the necklace lies a stunning Emerald and Diamond clasp, which not only serves as a functional element but also as a striking focal point. The clasp is adorned with a large, richly hued Emerald, surrounded by a halo of sparkling diamonds in a floral design, and hung with three beautifully matched natural pearl drops. The clasp and pearl drops are connected by three custom-designed triple strand diamond extenders in an elegant Tulip motif, all set in platinum.

This exquisite combination of pearls, emeralds, and diamonds makes the necklace a piece perfect for both grand occasions and more intimate gatherings. It is a true statement of sophistication, blending the classic beauty of pearls with the regal allure of emeralds.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction Hong Kong, May 2024 - $3,528,000.00 HKD (original estimate $2,000,000 - $3,000,000 HKD)

 

Superb Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Earrings

This pair of natural saltwater and diamond pearl stud earrings were featured in Christie's June 2024 Magnificent Jewels auction are a remarkable example of timeless elegance. Each earring is set with a button-shaped natural pearl, measuring 14.80 - 15.25 x 13.20mm and 14.80 - 15.55 x 12.00mm, respectively.

These pearls are accompanied by a pair of Round-cut diamonds, all meticulously mounted in white gold. These exquisite earrings were accompanied by a report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute confirming their natural origins.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction New York, June 2024 - $277,200.00 USD (original estimate $20,000 - $30,000)

 

 

Enamel, Gold and Pearl Jester Brooch by Renee Lalique, 1896

The Jester brooch by René Lalique, created in 1896, is a stunning example of Art Nouveau jewelry, blending whimsy and sophistication. The brooch features a jester figure, meticulously crafted in 18K Yellow Gold and adorned with vibrant blue and pink enamel, capturing the playful yet mysterious essence of the character. Lalique’s masterful use of enamel brings the jester to life with a vibrant palette, making it a striking piece of wearable art.

A particularly captivating element of this brooch is the baroque pearl drop that hangs delicately from the jester's figure. This pearl, a baroque drop-shape and likely natural in origin, adds a touch of elegance and contrasts beautifully with the intricate enamel work above. The pearl drop not only enhances the visual appeal of the brooch but also reflects Lalique's skill in incorporating natural elements into his designs, creating jewelry that is both intricate and timeless.

Sold Phillips New York Jewels Auction, June 2024 - $39,370.00 USD (original estimate $10,000 - $15,000)

 

 

 

Superb Natural Pearl and Diamond Art Deco Necklace

A second natural pearl and diamond necklace finished with a clasp in the Art Deco style was also sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction in June of 2024. The pearls belonged to American socialite Sunny Crawford von Bulow, who when she married Prince Alfred von Auersperg of Austria, she became known as Princess von Auersperg. Upon her passing, her daughter Ala von Auersperg Isham carefully selected a few choice items from her stunning collection to put up for auction.

She says: "I've always deeply admired my mother's exquisite collection of jewelry. Each piece carries memories of elegance and grace, reflecting both the woman who wore them and the exceptional craftsmanship behind their creation."

The pearl necklace features 48 natural pearls and 5 cultured pearls graduating from 6.35-10.95mm, and is laid out in a classic, timeless graduating layout. The diamond clasp features a large Marquis-cut main diamond, surrounded by smaller pavé-set diamonds and two bullet-cut diamonds on either end, all mounted in platinum, stamped 1930. This exquisite necklace was accompanied by a report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute confirming their natural and cultured origins.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction, June 2024 - $302,400.00 USD (original estimate $100,000 - $150,000)

 

 

 

Photo courtesy of Christie's 

Natural and Cultured Pearl Necklace with Diamond Clasp (Provenance Unknown)

This exquisite necklace features a graduated series of pearls, transitioning from natural pearls to cultured ones, seamlessly blending the two types in a harmonious design. The pearls are meticulously matched in terms of luster and color, with the larger pearls positioned centrally, creating a focal point of visual balance and sophistication. The necklace is complemented by a diamond-set clasp, adding a touch of sparkle and luxury to this timeless accessory.

This necklace exemplifies the allure of pearls in high jewelry, showcasing the rarity and beauty of natural pearls while celebrating the innovation of cultured pearls. Its design, which highlights the unique characteristics of each pearl, makes it a versatile piece that can be worn for both grand occasions and intimate gatherings. The necklace’s understated elegance and the delicate interplay between the natural and cultured pearls reflect a deep appreciation for the nuances of fine jewelry, making it a standout lot in the 2024 sale. The unusually large sizes of the pearls, graduating from 7.25 to 12.95mm, likely was the main selling point of this piece, fetching the highest price of all natural pearls at this particular auction.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction, June 2024 - $378,000.00 USD (original estimate $50,000 - $70,000)

 

 

 

Photo Courtesy of Christie's 

Natural Pearl and Diamond Dangle Earrings (Provenance Unknown)

These exquisite earrings feature two beautifully matched natural pearls, each showcasing a luminous, iridescent quality that highlights their exceptional rarity and beauty. The drops measure 11.87-12.0mm by 18.62mm in height and 11.12-11.17 by 18.57mm in height. Suspended delicately from a cascade of baguette-cut diamonds, the pearls become the focal point of these dangle earrings, embodying a timeless, romantic sophistication. The diamonds are meticulously set in platinum, offering a striking contrast to the pearls and adding a brilliant sparkle to the design. 

These earrings represent the epitome of refined craftsmanship, with every detail carefully considered to enhance the natural beauty of the pearls. The combination of the sleek, geometric baguette-cut diamonds with the organic form of the pearls creates a harmonious balance, making these earrings a versatile choice for both formal and special occasions. Their classic yet contemporary design ensures that they remain a coveted piece for any fine jewelry collection, capturing the enduring allure of natural pearls and the timeless appeal of diamonds.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction, June 2024 - $182,700.00 USD (original estimate $50,000 - $70,000)

 

 

 

Photo courtesy of Christie's auction house

Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings (Property of a Lady)

These jaw-droppingly gorgeous earrings feature two excellently matched natural saltwater pearls in an elongated tear-drop shape, measuring 10.4 - 10.5 x 18.7mm and 10.3 -10.5 x 17.8mm each. an extraordinary pair of natural pearl and diamond dangle earrings from the esteemed Belle Époque period, the earrings are crafted with impeccable attention to detail, featuring two stunning natural pearls that serve as the centerpiece of the design. The pearls are perfectly matched in size and luster, displaying a captivating, soft glow that is characteristic of the finest natural pearls. They are set in a delicate platinum framework, which accentuates their beauty and complements the surrounding diamonds.

Enhancing the allure of the natural pearls, the earrings are adorned with a series of old-cut and rose-cut diamonds, meticulously arranged to create a dazzling cascade of light. The diamonds, weighing 1.10 carat and 1.01 carats each, are graded H Color and VS2 clarity, add a dynamic quality to the earrings, with their sparkle providing a striking contrast to the smooth, glowing pearls. The earrings embody the elegance and refinement of the Belle Époque era, making them a timeless piece that not only celebrates the rarity of natural pearls but also showcases the exquisite craftsmanship of early 20th-century jewelry design.

Sold Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction Hong Kong, May  2024 - $1,260,000.00 HKD (original estimate $800,000 - $1,200,000 HKD)

 

 

Photo courtesy of Lyon and Turnbull

The Abernathy Freshwater Pearl of Scotland, The Cairncross Collection

The Abernathy Pearl, discovered in Scotland's River Tay in 1967, is one of the most famous natural pearls in the world due to its extraordinary size, quality, and the rarity of its origin. This remarkable pearl, often referred to as the "Little Willie" pearl, was found by pearl fisher Bill Abernathy, after whom it is named. Weighing an impressive 43.6 grains, or approximately 10.91 carats, the Abernathy Pearl measures an impressive 10.5-10.6mm in size, which is almost unheard of for natural Freshwater pearls.

It is celebrated for its near-perfect round shape, brilliant luster, and subtly shimmering pink overtone. Its discovery was particularly significant because natural pearls of such size and quality are incredibly rare, especially from a freshwater source like the River Tay, which was historically known for producing pearls but had seen a decline in such finds due to overfishing in the area.

The fame and value of the Abernathy Pearl stem not only from its physical characteristics but also from its unique place in Scottish history and natural pearl lore. It is considered one of the finest pearls ever found in Scotland and has become a symbol of the country’s rich natural heritage. The pearl's association with Scotland, combined with its exceptional beauty and rarity, has made it a highly sought-after gem among collectors and historians alike. The Abernathy Pearl remains a testament to the natural wonders hidden within Scotland's rivers and continues to be admired as one of the most valuable and celebrated pearls in the world.