The most famous of all cultured pearl types is the saltwater Japanese Akoya pearl. Cultured in the early 1900s by the "Father of Cultured Pearls", Kokichi Mikimoto, this is the world's FIRST whole, round, cultured pearl type. 

Known as "The Classic White Pearl", these are the pearls you're most likely to imagine if you close your eyes and think of a pearl necklace. Popularized during WWII, American soldiers were among the first to bring cultured Akoya pearl jewelry home from Japan to gift to their wives and girlfriends, turning the Akoya pearl from an unheard of novelty to the iconic white pearl necklace women wore in the United States. 

Lovely Marilyn Monroe helped put the Akoya pearl choker from Mikimoto on the map when she was gifted a strand of cultured pearls by her then-husband and baseball Hall of Famer Joe DiMaggio.

Key Facts To Know About Akoya Pearls

• Bead nucleated cultured saltwater pearls primarily from Japan. This means that there's a solid mother-of-pearl round bead inserted into the oyster which then coats over with layers of lustrous nacre. 
• Akoya pearls are vulnerable to damage from wear and tear, chemicals, sweat and dirt, which can slowly erode the nacre coating the interior bead over time. 
• Small to moderate sizes range from 2.0-3.0mm up to 9.5-10.0mm and rarely larger. 
• Typically White in color, but you can also find Akoya pearls in natural shades Blue, Gold and even Pistachio Green! 
• Dyed Black Akoya pearls are available
• Vast majority are perfectly round in shape, and are known as "Eight Way Rollers" because they will smoothly roll in all directions when placed on a flat surface.
• Known for their "mirror-like" luster which displays very sharp, highly detailed reflections. 
• Akoya pearl necklaces, bracelets, earrings and sets should display near perfect matching for size, shape, color, overtone, luster and blemish rate.
• Prices will range from low hundreds for a pair of pearl studs to tens of thousands for larger sized necklaces and the highest qualities.
• You can choose between AA+, AAA and Hanadama Grades.
• Hanadama Akoya Pearls are certified by the Pearl Science Laboratory of Tokyo, Japan.

Reasons to buy Akoya pearls.

A Note About Akoya Pearl Blemishes/Inclusions

One of the key distinctions separating Akoya pearls from Freshwater pearls is the type and appearance of surface blemishing and inclusions. 

Akoya Pearls Will Feature: 

Wrinkles in the surface nacre / Uneven nacre accumulation - this occurs when the pearl growth process is interrupted while the pearl is inside the oyster, and the mollusk ends up depositing multiple layers of nacre in the same spot rather than in smooth, consecutive layers. 

Flat spots - this is UNIQUE to Akoya pearls - I've never seen this blemish on any other pearl type in all my years dealing with cultured pearls. This could change in the future, but over the tens of thousands of pearls I've examined over the years, the flat spots on Akoya pearls is a definite indicator that the pearls are in fact, cultured Akoya. These look like exactly what they sound like: small, circular flat spots, almost like the pearl surface was hit with a hammer. 

Scaly Spots - this is a clear, colorless inclusion called “uroko” in Japan; it usually indicates some kind of event or growth disturbance while the pearl was being formed inside the oyster.

Pin Pricks - these also look exactly how they sound like, tiny pin pricks in the pearl's surfaces. They can be individual, or clustered in groups. Ideally, you'll want to see tiny, individual pin pricks scattered far apart - the fewer the better, but they can (along with every other blemish type listed here) act as a built-in identification system you can use to ID your pearls as yours and yours alone. 

Mottling/Bulleting - this is a faint plating pattern on the pearl’s surface, and considered to be the result of very thick nacre accumulation. As such, this is not considered an inclusion per se, however many do find that this feature can mar the smooth surface of the pearls if found in abundance. A colorless feature, this type of growth characteristic does not impact the beauty of the necklace if found upon up-close inspection occasionally, and does not affect the long-term durability of the pearl.

The bracelet pictured above showcases some of the more classic Akoya pearl inclusions - this is a commercial quality pearl bracelet, and we don't carry pearls like this. But it's great for illustrative purposes! 

Read More: Akoya Pearl Grading Guide 

Freshwater Pearls:

My personal favorite underdog of the pearl world, Freshwater pearls are farmed in China in manmade aquaculture ponds, in lakes and rivers. These pearls started being cultured in the 1960's and 1970's, and initially were called "Rice Crispy" pearls due to their crinkled, wrinkled appearance and elongated shapes. 

Over the years, farmers have steadily worked on improving the shape, smoothness and size of their pearls, progressing from "Rice Crispy" to "Potato" to "Semi-Round" and now, "Near Round" to "Perfect Round" and even Edison Freshwater pearls that are both perfectly round, with sizes to rival South Sea pearls and a range of saturated, intense colors like Royal Purple, Blue, Magenta and Bronze ... a remarkable accomplishment! 

Strands of naturally colored Lavender Freshwater pearls in the common Drop-Shape baroque. Part of the evolution of Freshwater pearl shapes. 

What I really love about Freshwater pearls is that they are 100% solid crystalline nacre - meaning that they're the closest pearl type you can get compared to natural, wild pearls.

 

Freshwater pearls are "tissue-nucleated", which means that only a small piece of donor mantle tissue is inserted into the soft body of the mollusk to stimulate pearl formation. As nacre is deposited concentrically around this irritant, the organic tissue at the center begins to degrade, leaving you with a moderately sized pearl of solid nacre, and a soft, subtle glow that appears to emanate from inside the pearl itself. 

 

And let's not forget their toughness and durability!! Freshwater pearls will likely last for centuries, maintaining their beauty, luster and glow, making them (in my eyes at least) ideal heirlooms to pass down through the generations - provided that you've purchased the highest quality pearls you can afford. 

 Reasons to buy Freshwater pearls

 

A Note About Freshwater Pearl Inclusions

Freshwater pearls have a distinctive set of surface inclusions / blemishes that are indicators of this pearl type. Many inclusions will be shared with other pearl types, which we'll also go over, but there are at least two I can think of that are uniquely characteristic of Freshwater pearls. 

The biggest difference between Freshwater pearl grades like AAA or AAAA is one of SHAPE. 

It’s the most visible and easily quantified value attribute between the two qualities; the next two differences will be that of Luster and Surface Quality.

But moving on to regular surface blemishes and what you can expect to see.

Chalky spots  are easily the most common of Freshwater pearl inclusions. They’re exactly what they sound like: dull, chalky-looking areas on the pearl surface.

Pits or pitting blemishes  are similar to pin-prick inclusions found on saltwater cultured pearls. They are circular indentations on the pearl’s surface. The majority of them are small-sized and won’t be too noticeable, but are generally larger than a single pin-prick like with Akoya pearls. Thankfully, these inclusions are colorless and only noticeable upon up-close inspection of 6-inches or less.

Ridges are an inclusion that is UNIQUE to Freshwater pearls, quite likely due to their solid-nacre composition. Ridges are totally covered in nacre, so they’ll be whatever color the pearl is, i.e. white for white, pink for pink and so on. But they'll present as a single, raised ridge over a semi-large surface area, limited to a tiny bit of a millimeter in diameter. They can be long in length (relatively), but pretty slim and same colored as the pearl.

 

Score marks or scoring begins with a small pin prick or pit, and then appears to be drawn off lightly over the surface of the pearl … they can look like small comets or shooting stars for those of us with a romantic viewpoint.

 

For dyed pearls such as our Black Freshwater pearls, up close inspection of the surfaces will often reveal a slight graininess or tiny dark speckles where the dye has concentrated. This is a natural part of the color-treatment process, and does not affect the durability or overall loveliness of the pearls. 

Pictured above are typical ridge blemishes, and then pitting and scoring blemishes commonly seen on Freshwater pearls, in addition to the Off-Round to Near-Round pearl shapes that characterize this pearl type. 

Read More: Freshwater Pearl Grading Guide

Decision Time! Akoya or Freshwater Pearls??

Which pearl type you choose is a balancing act between Price, Luster and Shape among other factors like perceived value and personal aesthetics. 

Saltwater Akoya pearls are the higher-end, more elegant choice for pearl lovers. If these pearls will be well-cared for, worn at special events and are going to be a keepsake that’s possibly handed down to the next generation, then I recommend the Akoya.

 

Additionally, the Akoya will have that “Mikimoto” pearl look and feel ... mirror-like luster and perfectly round pearls expertly matched throughout an entire layout or suite is definitely a special treasure that are worth the higher price points.

 

Freshwater pearls are - for the most part - the more “casual” pearl choice, with lower price points (often about ¼ to ½ the price of their saltwater counterpoints), higher durability and more variation in shape, and a softer, more satiny luster.

 

I usually recommend choosing a Freshwater pearl necklace for those of us on a lower budget but want that “classic” pearl necklace look without breaking the bank, OR who want to give a special “first pearls” gift to that special someone and not worry too much about the gems being mis-handled by younger wearers.

In the end, no matter which pearl type you choose: Freshwater or Akoya, pearls from Pure will always be hand-selected for beauty, and each order will be made by hand, tailored to your preferences. 

Read More: Freshwater vs. Akoya Pearl Guide

So: which pearl type is your favorite?? 

Until next time ...

 

XO,

Ashley M.

 

 

 

THAT FRESHWATER GLOW

 

 

 

Multi-Color Freshwater Pearl Necklace, 8.5-9.5mm, AAAA Quality

This exquisite piece showcases 8.5-9.5mm multicolor freshwater pearls, chosen for their stunning luster and unique shapes. Each pearl is carefully strung and double-knotted with the finest silk thread, ensuring durability and elegance. You'll appreciate how the shimmering colors can complement any outfit, making it a versatile option for your jewelry collection.

 

These pearls originate from the exotic regions of China, where skilled farmers use traditional methods to cultivate them. The farming process involves nurturing the pearls in pristine freshwater environments, allowing them to develop their beautiful luster. This dedication to quality means that our pearls represent the top 2-3% of harvest quality, focusing on surface quality and shape. For a deeper understanding of what makes these pearls special, check out our Freshwater Pearl Buying Guide.

 

At Pure Pearls, we pride ourselves on quality and craftsmanship. With our direct-to-consumer model, you can enjoy the same luxury as high-end brands without the hefty price tag. Plus, we offer 90-day free returns, so you can shop confidently. Elevate your style with our stunning collection of freshwater pearls.